Skis or snowshoes on Denali?

[parkmeister]

I have a friend that's thinking of climbing Denali one of these days.

He heard that the best way to shuttle gear from the base camp to the upper camps is by using skis. He does not have much skiing experience. He also read that using snowshoes is a good way to move around.

Any suggestions on your preferred method of transport and maybe some tips on gear would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Gary

[brad nicholson]

are much better for glacier travel than snow shoes. the main reason is that they are more efficient and descent is quicker, snowshoes you work up and down.

if you are not really a good skier then perhaps that is a skill worth picking up before you head to denali.

[NoKnees]

Skis are also a little bit safer if there is any concern about small crevasses, etc.. Thing is, if he really isn't that comfortable on skis, it wouldn't be worth it. Picking yourself up on skis with a loaded pack and or a sled pulling at you is no fun... Then again postholing in soft snow with snowshoes on with a loaded pack isn't fun either..

Anyway, just thinking aloud...

[MN Josh]

I switched to some nice light skis (Backcountry XC with full edges) this winter from my snowshoes (MSR Denali) and I can say that I will never go back to the snowshoes as a primary mode of transportation in winter. Heavy brush on the ground (not the kind of thing you'd experience on Denali) would put me back on snowshoes, but otherwise the skis are faster, easier to mess with (although the Denali Binding is not bad).

That being said, there are a few drawbacks to skis in your case. The inexperience of your friend makes them a questionable choice as Greg said, but if you are doing mostly uphill skinning and low angle descents, they might work (anybody can learn to snowplow). The other thing is what type of set-up to use. I would suggest an AT setup over a tele or (worse yet!) XC-BC. The ability to lock the heel will be better for descending. Also, consider that you will have to lug your boots along unless you.....1) modify the bindings to include your climbing boots (not likely to be allowed on rentals), or.....2) climb in rental AT boots (possible, but maybe not comfortable). Another good source of info would be the skireview.com site alongside this site, or mtncommunity.org (good info here from people who have been in your situation).

Josh